Fratelli in Netanya successfully navigates between Neapolitan tradition and bold innovation

We only occasionally encounter Italian cuisine that manages to achieve perfection onto a plate. The restaurant Fratelli in Netanya, under the leadership of chef-pastry chef Barak Cohen, is exactly such a creation. In a kingdom where dough is the sovereign, Cohen manages to navigate between Neapolitan tradition and bold innovation. The result: Beautiful and delicious dishes, with no misses in any course.

We started with the brioche bruschetta (NIS 58) - three pieces that demonstrate daring creativity, wonderful play of flavors and textures. On a base of cloud-like bread with a velvety texture, the kind Cohen perfected over years at Tel Aviv’s Magazzino, the three bruschettas present intensely flavored brie cheese with raspberry jam that adds a sweet fruity layer; bluefin tuna with strawberry crème fraîche and passion fruit; and chicken liver pâté with cherry tomato jam.

We continued to the heart of the menu - the pizza. Here Cohen’s expertise in dough handling is evident: A classic Neapolitan pizza (NIS 68) that underwent a 72-hour long fermentation and was baked in a blazing wood-fired oven. The dough has thick edges (“cornicione”), a bubbly texture, and a deep flavor. The charming ritual of diners cutting the dough with scissors adds an experiential dimension to the dish.

In the pasta section, the hunter’s gnocchi (NIS 92) revealed perfectly seared meat cuts combined in synergy with mushrooms and a rich beef stock, all wrapped in a Pecorino Romano and Parmesan cream. Confit garlic and toasted walnut pieces add earthy depth and impressive complexity.

We did not skip the beef fillet on polenta (NIS 76): The beef cuts are juicy in perfect precision, placed on a soft and velvety corn cream that absorbs the rich demi-glace sauce, with touches of Parmesan and chives that add freshness.

We ended the evening with carrot cake (NIS 46). As expected from someone who began his career in the world of sweets, the dessert is excellent - perfectly balanced and ending the meal with a sense of elevation.

The average Israeli palate maintains an ambivalent relationship with sweetness. We tend to enjoy the presence of sugar not only in desserts, but as a connecting thread running through starters, salads, and even more complex main dishes. At times, this tendency drifts into culinary excess, but in times of heightened tension such as these we are experiencing now, sweet food becomes the most important thing: Comfort food in its purest form.

During a visit to the kosher branch of the King Kong chain in Hadera, many of the dishes we chose had a noticeably sweet profile. Surprisingly, we did not feel any guilt about surrendering to sugar. The place creates an atmosphere that makes it easy to let go. The design is beautiful and inviting, the service is excellent, and the food is served without unnecessary pretension - simply tasty.

We started with the beef crunch salad (NIS 62), which plays on textural contrasts: Crispy glass noodles and crunchy beef strips meet the freshness of chopped lemon, crisp vegetables, and cilantro. The dressing, a sweet soy-orange blend, wraps the ingredients and emphasizes the modern Asian character. The surprise of the evening came in the form of the lollipops (NIS 54). There is something almost subversive about serving chicken schnitzel bites on a stick in an adult restaurant, but the execution is a real hit, thanks in part to the Korean barbecue sauce that takes the dish far beyond banal ketchup into smoky, well-seasoned territory.

In the sushi section we sampled the Namazake combo (NIS 94). Here a logistical issue was noted: The dish arrived at the table only after the other diners had finished their meal. The visual aspect was also not flawless - the cutting was not precise and the nigiri pieces looked rather small. However, in the decisive taste test, the fish was excellent. The Midori roll and salmon tartar maki were well balanced, and touches of yuzu kosho on the nigiri added a citrus depth that compensated for the appearance.

For the main course we chose the Kung Fu chicken (NIS 78). Despite the childish name, this is a rich and generous dish. The sweet-and-sour sauce blends beautifully with cashews and ginger, and the steamed rice serves as a perfect base for absorbing the flavors.