Spots on the face appear for many reasons: Sun exposure, pregnancy, hormonal changes, or acne scars. But with all the confusing and abundant information, which treatment actually works? Yafa Maximov, owner of a beauty-tech network and a veteran cosmetologist who recently served as chairperson of the Cosmetologists Association, provides a clear answer: "There is no single treatment that suits everyone."
Start with a professional assessment
Before investing in an expensive treatment or buying yet another cream, Maximov recommends a professional assessment by an experienced cosmetologist. "Only a cosmetologist with experience can create an accurate treatment protocol for your type of spots, their depth, and your skin type," she explains.
In general, pigmentation treatment is carried out in three main directions:
1. Home Treatment: Creams and Serums
Includes products with active ingredients such as retinol, kojic acid, vitamin C, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA), and niacinamide. These ingredients suppress melanin production, promote cell turnover, and gradually lighten existing spots while preventing new ones from forming. Suitable for mild to moderate pigmentation, maintaining results after professional treatments, and regular prevention.
Advantage: Convenience of home use, relatively low cost, and daily application that can be incorporated into a skincare routine.
2. Professional Treatment: Administered by a Cosmetologist
Includes treatments with high-concentration acids (glycolic, mandelic, lactic) that peel the top layers of the skin, including melanin-suppressing action. Suitable for moderate to severe pigmentation, acne scars, uneven skin tone, and fine lines.
Advantage: Comprehensive treatment that improves overall skin texture, powerful and deep, suitable for both new and old spots.
3. Technological Treatment: Laser and IPL
Includes treatments with advanced medical devices such as precise lasers or IPL, which use light energy to break down spots. The technology targets the dark pigment in the skin, heats it, and breaks down melanin deposits. Within one to two weeks, the spots darken and are removed through the lymphatic system. Suitable for sunspots, mild hormonal pigmentation, broken capillaries, and redness.
Advantage: Fast and visible results after 3–5 treatments, with a skin-renewing effect.
The Key: Combining Approaches
"Mild pigmentation from the sun? Home creams can do an excellent job, but it is still important that the home treatment is customized for each individual after a professional assessment," Maximov explains. "Stubborn age spots? Consider IPL combined with peeling. And the real key? Combining approaches: Professional treatment at the start, and regular home maintenance."
And the most important advice? "No matter which treatment you choose, daily sun protection with a high SPF is essential. Without it, the spots will simply return."