Vitkin, the boutique winery of the Belogolovsky-Paz family, has for years, in my opinion, been among the best wineries in Israel by far. This is where what later came to be called “the Mediterranean Revolution” in Israeli wines truly began — emphasizing grape varieties from southern France/the Rhône Valley, which are much better suited to the local climate as well as the local cuisine. From here also come wines that, on one hand, provide quality and charm to a relatively broad audience through the “Israeli Journey” series; and on the other, go for uncompromising complexity for connoisseurs. Between these, they produce many excellent varietal wines, both white and red.
This is distinctly “Old World” winemaking. It lets the variety and terroir characteristics speak, rather than the winemaker’s needs and considerations. The wines are fruit-balanced, very elegant, crafted with great precision, and succeed in providing quite a bit of local pride — something that is somewhat rare these days.
Not all the wines I tasted before the review were included in the final list, mainly to avoid excess. The excellent “Vitkin Pinot Noir 2023” is not included, nor is “Shoreshim,” the winery’s great and complex wine, not made every vintage and exceptional in its qualities; nor the fun “Israeli Journey White,” among others.
So what is included in this review? “Israeli Journey Red 2023,” the basic, everyday, fun one; “Vitkin Carignan Old Vines 2021,” which is nothing less than a masterpiece; and four whites — “Carignan Blanc 2024,” which is truly a surprise (when was the last time you tasted a white Carignan?); “Vitkin Gewürztraminer 2024,” remarkably dry and truly a source of pride, unlike almost all other Gewürztraminer wines made here; “Vitkin Riesling Single Vineyard 2022,” among the best expressions of the variety in Hebrew; and of course, “Vitkin Grenache Blanc 2022,” consistently among the peaks of white wine production in Israel.
Vitkin began as a modest family winery and grew over the years. The humility of those behind the work — Doron Belogolovsky and Sharona Paz-Belogolovsky, and the winemaker Asaf Paz — remains. True kudos to them for over twenty years of uncompromising craftsmanship. Except for the “Israeli Journey” series, intended for all, the other wines will be appreciated mainly by experienced drinkers. Apart from the basic series, the wines are not cheap, but the value for money is very good to excellent, given their qualities. Cheers!
Vitkin, Israeli Journey Red 2023
Two-thirds Carignan and the rest Grenache Noir from dry-farmed vineyards (no irrigation) in the Alona and Binyamina area, at the foothills of Mount Carmel, along with a little Syrah and Cabernet Franc from the Upper Galilee. Each variety fermented separately, and after malolactic fermentation, the blend was constructed. 8–10 months of aging in French oak barrels. Coarse filtration. Slightly purplish red color. On the nose, red fruit, spices (herbes de Provence), and flowers. Light to medium body. 13% alcohol by volume.
How much? NIS 85.
Best suited for: A very wide range of food — from sandwiches, pasta, and pizza, to chicken dishes, barbecue, and picnics.
Critic’s note: Young, light, with charming fruit that isn’t overloaded, pleasant supportive acidity, good balance, and true joie de vivre. As a young wine, it’s fun to drink now, even slightly chilled. It can age for a few years and develop a wider range of aromas and flavors in two to three years.
Value for money: 4.5/5 (truly excellent).
Vitkin, Carignan Blanc (Blanc de Carignan) 2024
How much? NIS 135.
Best suited for: Fish, seafood, shellfish, pork, and veal dishes.
Critic’s note: A rare wine produced in a limited edition. A red variety made using a technique typical of white wines. On the palate, it’s exceptional. First, it’s not right to drink it immediately upon opening — wait at least 45 minutes. Second, don’t drink it too cold; it will stay closed and limited. After aeration and at the right temperature, it reveals wonderful dryness, significant aromatics, sharpness, plenty of nuances, complexity, precision, and excellent balance. A fascinating and delightful wine.
Value for money: 4/5 (very good).
Vitkin, Carignan Old Vines 2021
How much? NIS 135.
Best suited for: Lamb chops, stews, high-quality aged beef on the bone.
Critic’s note: Mediterranean Carignan at its best, with black and red fruit, a touch of Provencal herbs, earthiness, minerality, power alongside softness, depth, and plenty of character. The wine most closely associated with Vitkin Winery — the pioneer of the Mediterranean revolution in the local wine industry — and deservedly so.
Value for money: 4.5/5 (excellent. Among the best local wines in its price category).
Vitkin, Gewürztraminer 2024
How much? NIS 125.
Best suited for: Sushi, sashimi, Vietnamese and Thai food, ceviche, carpaccio, and fish tartare.
Critic’s note: Most Gewürztraminer wines that Israelis tend to drink are semi-dry — that is, sweet. This Gewürztraminer is dry. On the palate, one can find the classic fruity traits of the variety — tropical fruit, grapefruit, and more — but they are restrained, balanced with sharp, precise acidity, endowed with beautiful minerality, and the lovely dryness holds it all together. An excellent wine. Perfect for an Asian meal.
Value for money: 4/5 (very good).
Vitkin, Riesling Single Vineyard 2022
How much? NIS 125.
Best suited for: Fish, seafood, shellfish, lobster, and pork dishes.
Critic’s note: This is the 20th vintage of Vitkin’s Riesling. This wine, aged an additional year in the bottle, begins to show the wonderful petrol-like note typical of Riesling at its best. In addition, it has white fruit and great floral tones, and of course, dominant, lovely acidity. A Riesling that resonates with its classic varietal counterparts in Germany and Austria, yet insists on a distinctly local identity. It has a strong culinary presence, and drinking it is nothing short of a pleasure.
Value for money: 4/5 (very good).
Vitkin, Grenache Blanc 2022
How much? NIS 150.
Best suited for: Fish, seafood, shellfish, lobster, pork.
Critic’s note: Excellent yet restrained fruit, clearly balanced by acidity. Strong aromatic profile, abundant minerality, and multi-dimensional complexity. It’s already been noted that this wine requires relatively long aeration and should not be drunk very cold. In this vintage, that’s even more pronounced. In fact, it’s best to drink it close to room temperature. Also, don’t rush — sip a little at a time throughout the meal. As time passes, more layers are revealed. A fascinating and exceptional wine.
Value for money: 3.5/5 (good).