Winemaker Itay Lahat produces red and white wines in his boutique winery in the Western Upper Galilee, reflecting his winemaking philosophy. Distinctly culinary wines.
These days, Lahat is launching the seventh wine in his portfolio: “Lahat Garrigue, Rosé 2024.” At the wine’s launch, Elizabeth Gabay, Master of Wine, participated, sharing insights about the world of rosé wines and leading me to dive into it.
Gabay, one of the prominent figures in the wine world, especially in the rosé field which she studies in depth, is a respected wine journalist who has published books on wine, particularly on rosé, and lectures worldwide.
She earned the coveted title in 1998, and today she lives in the heart of the global rosé revolution, near Provence, from where she observes and documents the dramatic development of rosé wines in the last decade.
The first wine ever made
Rosé wine has a fascinating story that begins in ancient times and continues to this day. It is often thought that rosé was the first wine ever made. It was produced using primitive methods — stomping grapes by foot — which created a pinkish must.
In the Middle Ages, rosé was considered a prestigious wine among French nobility. In the 20th century, its popularity declined, and only in the early 2000s did it make a major comeback, becoming a global trend, especially in the summer.
Today, rosé wines can be found worldwide in a variety of styles: Dry, semi-dry, sweet, sparkling, fruity, spicy, and more. The world’s leading rosé capital has been, and still is, Provence in France, where over 90% of the wine produced is rosé.
Not just a pretty color
In the past, rosé was considered a simple, light, summery “in-between” wine, not to be taken seriously. Nowadays, there is a noticeable change in perception, and the wine is recognized as a high-quality wine in every respect.
Today there are prestigious rosé wines made from select grapes in meticulous processes, sold at high prices. Versatile wines combining the freshness of white wine with the depth of red wine, complex wines full of aromas and flavors, with precise acidity, and even aging potential.
Rosé is no longer just a pretty color; it is tasty, high-quality, and suitable for any season and almost any dish. Another advantage is that it often serves as a “bridge” between white and red wine — perfect for those unsure which to choose.
Which rosé suits you?
Rosé wines come in a very diverse color palette, and each shade tells a different story about the grape varieties’ origin, the production method, and sometimes even the expected flavors.
Light shades usually indicate a light and refreshing wine with high acidity, perfect mainly for summer, pairing well with salads and cheeses.
Darker shades indicate fuller body and richer flavors, suitable for roasted chicken, rich pastas, and various stews. Copper shades point to high complexity and spiced aromas, leading to pairing with more seasoned dishes.
Who are the rosé consumers worldwide? France is the world’s largest rosé consumer and producer. In Provence, rosé is part of everyday culture, usually dry and elegant.
The fastest-growing rosé market in the world is the United States, where young consumers prefer light and accessible rosé, often in cans. In Israel, there is a steady increase in rosé consumption, especially in the summer, when people here usually look for refreshing rosé to suit the local climate and spicy dishes.
Consumers are now willing to pay more for quality rosé. In the past decade, social media has significantly contributed to the rise in rosé consumption, likely thanks to its color, design, and the atmosphere it creates.
Itay Lahat’s rosé
And now to the main star. Itay Lahat, a vine agronomist, oenologist, and winemaker, has been in the wine industry since 1995. After serving for many years as a winemaker and consultant in numerous wineries, large and small, and getting to know all the important wine regions in the country, Lahat chose the region where he wanted to make his own wine — the Western Upper Galilee.
At Lahat Winery, he combines the knowledge and experience he has accumulated over the years to produce red and white wines, the product of the local terroir of the Western Upper Galilee. These days, Lahat has added a new wine, the winery’s first rosé and the seventh in his portfolio.
Lahat Winery, Garrigue Rosé 2024
Like all the winery’s wines, this one also belongs to a winemaking approach that values patience and persistence, expressed in a longer time in the winery and leaving the wine on its lees in barrels. This method enhances the wine’s complexity and creates a sophisticated wine with aging potential.
Mourvèdre grapes (35%), Syrah (35%), Grenache Noir (20%), and Roussanne (10%) from five different plots in the Ben Ayun Vineyard in Elkosh and the Peki’in Vineyard in the Western Upper Galilee have created a festive, enticing pink wine, rich in aromas and flavors that, in a blind tasting, could make the drinker wonder whether they are tasting white or red wine.
The wine’s acidity is wonderful and balanced, and together it all makes this the ultimate culinary wine, turning any quality meal into a perfect one. Price: NIS 120.
And if you were wondering about the origin of the wine’s name, according to Lahat’s explanation: Garrigue (in Hebrew: Shrubland or bush) is the perennial vegetation surrounding the vineyards. It is also one of the common terms used to describe rosé wines characterized by the aroma of wild plants and herbs.