Oh, the irony of it! Just when I was toying with the idea of becoming a vegetarian, I was invited to a Pitmaster evening in Petah Tikva. Pitmaster is a chain of restaurants (four, at the last count) where meat, in all its forms, reigns supreme.
This is not so much a restaurant as a show put on by the chefs, who present their offerings in a flamboyant and theatrical way, which induces a very special sense of camaraderie among the patrons.
The meal consists of seven meat courses, a starter of salads, and a dessert. Wine and beer flow freely. If you want soft drinks, bring your own.
We found ourselves sitting next to a middle-aged couple from Gedera, whose love of anything regarding meat brought them on their quite long journey to Petah Tikva. By the end of the evening, we were firm buddies. That’s the whole idea of Pitmaster – eat your meat and lose your inhibitions.
The diners sit at long wooden tables, called knight tables, with a long paper runner down their length. Music plays fairly loudly, but it’s ABBA, so it’s fine. Later, the music evolves into a more Sephardi beat, but not so that it impedes the conversation among the diners.
Two salads were already on the table when we sat down: a fresh green bean salad with mayonnaise dressing, and a tossed green salad.
The first course, a plate with two sausages and hummus, arrived for each couple to share. The sausage was juicy and delicious, but our knowledgeable table neighbor, who has done this before, issued a warning.
Don't fill up
“Don’t fill up on the rubbish,” he said. He knows what he’s talking about. Later courses will be prime beef and lamb.
Large screens on the walls provide a running commentary from the pitmasters as they cook, slice, and serve their fare. It was very hard to understand what they were saying, but my neighbor, Oshri Dahan, proved a good interpreter.
The first course was cleared away, and the second arrived. This was roasted turkey served in a bowl of orange squash puree, with a zatar-flavored baguette on the side. The dish was hot and comfort food at its best.
Course three was the classic Bukharan dish oshpalao. On our screens, we watched the chef stirring the casseroles of flavored rice. Then square dishes arrived, with mounds of pulled lamb atop the yellow rice.
Hagit, Oshri’s wife, advised eating the rice and lamb together, not just picking out the meat, as I am wont to do. She was right, and it was all very good.
After this course, I was wondering how I would manage to eat another four. The quantities are small, but they all build up into a great amount of food.
Course four was a beef skewer– very tender meat served with a half roasted garlic bulb and some roasted onion. In between eating, many diners were rushing over to the counters and photographing the cooking and serving of the food.
The fifth course was slow-cooked brisket, with a small bowl of tomato salsa on the side. The meat was super-tender and had no fat at all.
The atmosphere became more and more convivial as the evening progressed, and one could feel that all the diners were thoroughly enjoying the experience.
The last two courses were steak – entrecote and finally Denver steak, both rare and very tender.
It was now fairly late. Our whole experience ran from 8 p.m. to 11 p.m., and glasses of hot tea were served, which were very welcome. At 10:45 p.m., we were all tucking into a delicious dessert: a chocolate yeast cake with a slice of caramelized banana.
We exchanged phone numbers with the Dahans, vowed eternal friendship, and finally made our way home with vivid memories of the extraordinary meal we had enjoyed.
Petah Tikva
Tel: 073-277-7777
Price: NIS 300 per person
Hours: Sun.-Wed., 8 p.m.-1 a.m; Thu., 6 p.m.-8 p.m; 9 p.m.-11 p.m. Closed Fri. and Shabbat
Kashrut: Petah Tikva Rabbinate
Pitmaster has branches in Jerusalem, Beersheba, and Alonim.
The writer was a guest of the restaurant.