We arrived at The Jaffa Limited by Fattal just before sunset on a Friday. The timing couldn’t have been better, as the light softened over Jaffa Port and turned golden red, and the quiet rhythm marked the start of Shabbat.

From its hilltop setting, the hotel overlooks the old port and the Mediterranean, with Tel Aviv’s skyline rising to the right. It’s close to everything yet distant enough from the rush to feel like a real detachment from city chaos.

The Jaffa draws a steady mix of Israelis and tourists, even at the end of summer.

The immense building carries its own story. Originally the French Hospital of St. Louis, built in 1879 to serve pilgrims and locals, it stands above Crusader-era foundations that still anchor the courtyards below. Its limestone arches and vaulted corridors were meticulously restored by British architect John Pawson and Israel’s Ramy Gill, who transformed the old monastery and hospital into a modern retreat that is both Jerusalem-esque and Byzantine-like. The result is an elegant balance of heritage and refinement, old stone framed by minimalist lines, history, and functionality.

Our room followed the same tone. It was bright and comfortable, modern without losing warmth. Large windows opened toward the sea, letting the light do most of the work. Soft linen, muted colors, and well-placed details provided character without clutter, a space designed to really let you exhale, unwind, and have a proper rest.

THE REPURPOSED chapel is a true architectural marvel.
THE REPURPOSED chapel is a true architectural marvel. (credit: AMIT GIRON)

After an evening stroll through Jaffa’s magical cobblestone streets, we returned for dinner at Giardino, the hotel’s restaurant, orchestrated by Bar Tzanger. The menu leans Mediterranean but threads in Middle Eastern notes, offering dishes that are simple in idea and precise in execution. 

We started with the Savoy Cabbage with mint vinaigrette, mechouia salad, and Bryndza cheese, a fresh mix of textures and herbs that set the tone for the evening. The Leek in Brown Butter, paired with fennel cream, chili oil, Marcona almonds, and za’atar, was a standout, buttery and aromatic without being heavy. The expertly grilled sirloin with a punchy pepper sauce and juicy baby zucchinis finished us off, with only a little room left for a delightful and refreshing coconut vanilla gelato with seared and dried pineapple on top.

The service matched the food: calm, genuine, and warm. There was no rush, no needless theatrics, just a convivial team making sure every table had what it needed and then some.

Starting Shabbat correctly with a soothing yoga session

Shabbat morning began with a yoga session in the hotel’s marvelous old chapel; a high-ceilinged room once used for worship and now repurposed for wellness. It has lost none of its calm. Sunlight filtered through arched windows, with movement replacing the echo of prayer.

After a good stretch, we headed to breakfast in the shaded courtyard, which felt like a portrait of Israel’s produce: fish from the coast, vegetables and cheeses from the land, all fresh, tasty, all that you need to start your day.

By mid-morning, we were at the pool. It’s a generous space with room for everyone to sit back and relax in and out of the delightful sun. The spa is under renovation, with other upgrades to follow.

We spoke with the bartenders, locals from Jaffa who described the city as a candid blend of cultures and faiths that works because people believe and want it to. You see that blend everywhere: in the architecture, the music, the food, the staff. The hotel captures that mix well, a Mediterranean setting with Middle Eastern hospitality

Fattal took over the hotel earlier this year, and the service runs smoothly yet without distant formality, rather via a smile and calmness. The approach seems clear: to restore a sense of local elegance without turning it into an artificial showpiece. They’ve taken a historic hotel and made it feel alive again.

The Jaffa Limited by Fattal | Phone: (03) 504 2000

Giardinio | Phone: 054 751 0582

Not kosher 

The writer was a guest of the hotel.