Eilat has long been Israel’s southern escape, a resort town where desert cliffs meet the Red Sea, and travelers come for coral reefs, dolphin encounters, and year-round sunshine. The Herbert Samuel Reef Hotel, perched on Almog Beach, has built its reputation on boutique intimacy, polished service, and enviable beachfront access.
Yet after two years of war, the hotel’s story is inseparable from the turbulence that has struck the city’s tourism landscape.
A boutique retreat on Almog Beach
I drove down to Eilat between two storms. It was the height of winter, and the perfect time to get some much-needed rest and relaxation. The day before I drove down, hundreds of tourists packed the highway out of the Arava to escape the storm and potential floods.
The Arava was stunningly wet as I drove down, with some driving off-road to watch formerly extinct streams flow back to life. Those same rivers of water were completely dry on the way back.
Speaking to locals about the exodus, they chuckled, commenting on how Israelis run from rain but came to Eilat for some “Houthi drone tourism.”
The war in Gaza and the Houthi drone attacks launched from Yemen have altered the rhythm of Eilat. Several drones reached the city this year, one striking near a hotel entrance and wounding dozens, while another hit Ramon Airport. No one was killed, but dozens have been wounded. Locals have decried the shelter situation in the city, with some even saying that several public shelters were locked throughout the war.
While the Reef itself was not directly hit, the psychological impact on visitors has been profound. International tourism, once a steady stream, has slowed to a trickle. Foreign governments cautioned against non-essential travel to Israel, and occupancy rates across the city have dropped sharply.
But since the ceasefire, the city – like the rest of the country – has seen a boost to the tourism industry. International airlines have returned, and hotels are seeing more rooms being booked.
Israel’s Las Vegas
Eilat has been known as Israel’s Las Vegas, albeit without the casinos (which are illegal in the Jewish state). The city’s promenade is full of large hotels and busy hostels that cater to a range of visitors, from university students coming to party to families.
There is construction around the city – from new housing complexes to shopping malls and hotels. Since it was winter, Eilat was markedly quieter than during the summer. But that brings its own magic – you can sit on an empty beach, and the quiet is all yours.
As you drive down a bit further from the noise, a mere few kilometers from the Egyptian border, there is The Reef. The five-story hotel is a white wonder against the reddish-brown backdrop of the desert.
The Reef distinguishes itself from Eilat’s sprawling resorts by offering a quieter, more intimate experience. Rooms are modern, with big balconies overlooking the turquoise waters. The large rooms have pull-out couches and enough room to place a crib should the guests come with children. The hotel also provides baby baths.
Outside the pools are well-kept, framed by loungers and umbrellas, while the beach lies just steps away, inviting guests to snorkel among coral reefs or kayak along the shoreline. Across the street from the hotel is the city’s waterpark, and a short drive away is the stunning Red Canyon – a beautiful hike when there are no flood warnings.
Whenever you talk to Eilat residents about the Reef, the first thing that they mention is the food. Breakfast is a highlight; you are greeted with a mimosa and welcomed by a scrumptious spread that reflects the hotel’s attention to detail and culinary pride. From eggs, salads, breads, pastas, and more, you cannot leave the room hungry. The hotel also caters to the religious community, operating under the Rabbinate of Eilat.
In the evening, there is a boutique chef restaurant, Lilie. The Mediterranean-style fish restaurant has wonderful dishes and incredible service. With generous portions and a relaxed atmosphere, the restaurant is a hidden gem in Eilat, and right under your noses if you stay at the Reef.
For travelers who value tranquility, the Reef offers a retreat that feels worlds away from the bustle of downtown.
Conflict Comes to the Coast
Eilat’s hotels face a paradox. On the one hand, what the hotels offer remains strong: pristine beaches, attentive staff, and a boutique atmosphere that rivals Mediterranean competitors. On the other hand, there is that ongoing perception of risk that could overshadow the experience.
Domestic tourism has softened the blow, but the city’s reliance on foreign visitors means recovery will be slow. There are still empty rooms, and reduced international flights have become part of the daily reality.
If one thing is clear, this country is resilient. And after five years where we’ve seen a pandemic, wars, and economic uncertainty, you can always find some peace and quiet in Eilat.
The Reef continues to deliver on its promise of boutique luxury. Its location on Almog Beach is unmatched, and its service culture remains resilient even under strain. The Reef today is not just a hotel for guests. Those who come find comfort, beauty, and shalva.
The writer was a guest of the hotel.