The south of France invokes visions of lavender fields, enchanting villages and the glamorous towns of the French Riviera, also known as la Côte d’Azur. It’s all true (although the lavender does not bloom until July), but there is also a great deal of Jewish history and life in this region.
The expression Hachmei Provence (the Sages of Provence) is familiar to students of rabbinic literature. These rabbis were spiritual leaders and scholars in the period of the Tosophists (12th-15th century) and connected the Torah learning of France and Germany with that of Spain and Catalonia. The Jews of Provence had their own unique language and prayer rite, although both are nearly extinct today.
We flew into Marseille by direct flight, and out of Nice (direct flight as well), traveling from one side of Provence to the other. This could be a leisurely road trip over several weeks - but we decided to limit it to five days. We got a taste of this amazing region, one that whetted the appetite for more.
Marseille is a vibrant and bustling city, the second largest in France. Its vibe is very different from Paris - less refined and elegant, very much a port city. We stayed near the Vieux Port (Old Port) and Le Panier area, which is considered very touristic and arty.
The street art was amazing: bright, bold, and often very stylized. The local graffiti is characterized by literary quotes and serious thoughts, rather than the rude scrawls one often sees elsewhere.
Many examples of modern and ancient architecture
A centerpiece of the regenerated Old Port is a vast mirrored canopy that reflects the sea as well as the people walking or milling around under it. It’s a modern architectural gem, drawing visitors and their cameras to the water’s edge.
There are many other examples of modern architecture in the city; one of the best is Mucem, the museum of European and Mediterranean civilization. This imposing structure features metal fretwork that recalls the Arab contribution to the city’s past.
Although Marseille has a reputation for being crime-ridden and dangerous, other cities in France are statistically riskier, and Marseille doesn’t compete with most American cities of a similar size in that aspect. We didn’t hang out in the northern districts, known for drug trafficking and gang violence. Crime is localized in Marseille, and only a reasonable amount of vigilance is needed in areas where tourists would visit.
For a panoramic view of the city, take “Le Petit Train” - a tourist shuttle or a public bus to the Basilica of Notre-Dame-of-la-Garde. This is considered the best vantage point for seeing the entire city, including Château d’If, the island fortress where the Count of Monte Cristo was imprisoned in Alexandre Dumas’s famous novel.
Another well-known writer in Provence is Marcel Pagnol, who wrote evocatively of this region and subsequently made films based on his books. They are very well known in France, and several are available in English translation.
The British travel writer Peter Mayle describes his experiences in Provence as well, offering both background and vicarious experience in this enchanting part of the country. I once read that reading about a place before visiting it is what differentiates a traveler from a tourist.
Marseille is also home to 80,000 Jews and is graced by a monumental 19th-century synagogue (Rue Breteuil in the sixth arrondissement), as well as scores of other Jewish houses of worship. There are many kosher restaurants; we chose a delicatessen called Katzav that offered formidable sandwiches. They were so good that we purchased deli meat (pastrami, roast beef, corned beef, and turkey) to take along with us for the next night’s dinner.
The elephant in the room (France) is antisemitism. We did not experience any in our short visit, but we heard about it from some of the French Jews whom we met. We saw a few identifiably observant Jews going about their business, and we visited kosher restaurants (the signs indicating that they were kosher tended to be discreet) and synagogues without incident.
When identifying ourselves, we did not hide the fact that we are Israeli, and reactions were polite. I consider visiting places of Jewish interest a way of supporting the local community and showing solidarity.
The route of our second day included the four towns where Jews were allowed to live in the Middle Ages: Avignon, Carpentras, Cavaillon, and L’Isle sur la Sorgue. These towns were part of the Papal State, and Jews, expelled from the Kingdom of France by Philip the Fair in 1306, were known as Les Juifs des Papes (the Popes’ Jews).
Pope Clement V relocated to Avignon in 1309, and that city became the home of the papacy for the following 67 years. Jews were confined to ghettos and suffered varying degrees of discrimination, but they lived under the protection of the papacy.
Avignon was the birthplace of several important figures in Jewish thought and literature; among them are Kalonymous ben Kalonymous, an original writer, translator, and satirist; and Gersonides (Levi ben Gershon or Ralbag), a noted biblical commentator and philosopher.
The Avignon synagogue (2 Place de Jerusalem) is relatively modern, dating from the middle of the 19th century, but stands on the site of a medieval house of prayer.
Its architecture is neoclassical and is most likely the only round synagogue in France. We were welcomed by a member of the community who opened the synagogue for us and spoke to us about the community, numbering several hundred families from the surrounding area.
We met the rabbi, Chanan Levin, a Chabad emissary who spoke to us (in excellent Hebrew) about the synagogue’s activities and outreach programs. He showed us where the pictures of the hostages in Gaza had been hung in the vestibule, and told us how their return last year on Hoshana Rabba, the final day of Sukkot, was celebrated.
My wife noticed the yellow ribbons that still adorn the eternal lights hanging in front of the Holy Ark, and asked the rabbi why they were still there. “Some things we are not permitted to forget,” he answered.
Levin walked with us for a few minutes toward the Papal Palace, an imposing Gothic edifice overlooking the river, and several people, obviously non-Jews, stopped to greet him. He told us that he often appears in the local electronic media and is active in interfaith affairs.
On the way to the Palace gardens, we saw a large memorial plaque dedicated to the local victims of the deportations and the Holocaust. From the appealing garden, we viewed the famous Bridge of Saint-Bénézet (if you ever took piano lessons as a child, you probably learned to play Sur le Pont d’Avignon). Remarkably, the bridge doesn’t reach the other side of the Rhône River; half of it was washed out in flooding in the 1600s. Evidently, repairs were not feasible.
Carpentras, site of a still-active synagogue from 1367
Our next stop was Carpentras, site of a still-active synagogue dating from 1367, later renovated in the Baroque style during the 18th century.
The synagogue is lovely and impressive, and the large building houses a historic mikveh, as well as matzah and bread bakeries that were once used by the community. It is necessary to reserve a tour in advance. A member of the congregation spoke to a group of about 30 visitors about the history of the community and the synagogue, as well as providing a general introduction to Jewish life.
Most of the visitors were French-speaking non-Jews; an English-speaking tour was not available. We were particularly enchanted by a miniature Elijah’s Chair (used in the circumcision ceremony) perched in a niche on the wall, and a lovely brass Hanukkah oil menorah.
The mikveh’s water came from an underground spring and was clear and fresh. The matzah oven, we were told, was used this year for a hands-on activity for young people.
From there, we drove to Cavaillon, the site of a small but arrestingly charming synagogue. The Jewish community has been defunct for about a century; the synagogue, located in the former ghetto, is a museum.
The Torah ark stands empty. The colors are Barbie pink and baby blue, and there is a significant amount of gilded wood. The women’s section was in the basement; we were told they could hear the prayers through the wooden floor! There is a mikveh in the adjoining building that is not open to the public except on rare occasions. If you are fascinated by medieval mikvaot, you can find a beautifully preserved one on Place de la Juiverie in Pernes-les-Fontaines.
Our last stop that day was L’Isle sur la Sorgue, a delightful little town built on a river (la Sorgue) and canals. It was once a center of textile manufacture, powered by water wheels. The Jewish community and manufacturing have long since gone, but the canals, water wheels, and the Beaucaire building and the Carcassonne building, which served the synagogue, are still there.
There is a Jewish cemetery outside of town as well. The location of the synagogue, destroyed in the 19th century, is known, and there is a sign marking “la Juiverie,” the former Jewish neighborhood.
We stayed in Aix-en-Provence, a city known for its many fountains, fed by natural springs. We stopped for a moment by the statue of Cezanne, known as the father of Impressionist art, who was born and lived most of his life in Aix.
The morning was spent exploring the markets on and around Cours Mirabeau: clothing, local produce, and crafts. The fruits and vegetables were exquisite, and the honey and lavender were the quintessence of Provence.
On our way to the markets, we passed by Monument Joseph Sec, an 18th-century memorial decorated by statues and bas-reliefs of figures from the Hebrew Bible: Noah, Moses, Aaron, David, Yael, and others.
Surprisingly, this memorial was not vandalized during the French Revolution - although many religious structures were - perhaps because its themes are justice and freedom, ideals respected by the revolutionaries.
It’s hard to escape the legacy of the Holocaust in Europe, and Provence is no exception. The Camp des Mille memorial site was used as a detention camp for Jews in Aix-en-Provence prior to their deportation to Auschwitz.
We then proceeded to explore a few of the picturesque villages of the Luberon Valley. This area is known for its photogenic towns and hamlets, one more lovely than the next.
One could easily spend several days driving from one to another, going in and out of cute shops, taking pictures of the amazing views, and overdosing on charm. Several of these villages were nearly abandoned in the post-war period, only to reinvent themselves as tourism magnets.
Roussillon is particularly striking due to the large ochre quarry, which provided raw materials for paint in shades of orange, saffron, salmon, and tan before chemical-based paints became cheaper to produce.
The houses are colored in all the possible hues of ochre, and it is possible to take a pleasant walk through the former quarry and see the same colors in their natural state. We made stops in Lourmarin, Bonnieux, and Gordes as well - each one a delight.
Our last day of travel was dedicated to the Cote d’Azur, often known as the French Riviera - a region that merits a more extended stay. Nevertheless, we were able to get a taste of this destination known for wealth and exclusivity.
While walking around the old port and market of Antibes, we heard a discordant sound of home: an air-raid siren. Eyes darting around seeking shelter, we discovered that this was a test that took place the first Wednesday of every month at noon.
We found a pleasant spot for a picnic by the bay where small boats were docked - in marked contrast to the yachts we saw moored in the port.
On our way, we passed walled gardens that surrounded stately homes, but aside from the sign that indicated that the tables and chairs were for the use of the residents’ club members (they were actually socializing there), the small beach was open to all.
From there, we continued on toward Nice, where we spent a pleasant hour in the Chagall Museum dedicated to biblical themes. Marc Chagall, originally from Vitebsk, was inspired by his roots in the shtetl and his cheder education, and derived many of his themes from the Hebrew Bible.
We marveled at works depicting Creation, Noah’s Ark, the binding of Isaac, the giving of the Torah, Elijah’s ascent to heaven in a fiery chariot, and other biblical imagery.
Nice is visually different from most French cities. Ruled by Italy until the 1860s, when a referendum made it part of the French Republic, it has a unique aesthetic: a good number of pink brick monumental buildings and several wide, open piazzas.
We joined a walking tour that pointed out some of the highlights of the city, including the elegant 19th-century opera house, the citadel and its adjacent waterfall, and Promenade des Anglais (named for British visitors who funded it in the 19th century), targeted by a terrorist in 2016 on Bastille Day, leaving over 80 dead.
We heard about the luxurious Belle Epoque Hotel Le Negresco, popular among Russian aristocratic expats in the 1920s and ’30s, and jetsetters in the 1960s and ’70s.
We strolled through the Old Town, the site of the ghetto set up in the 1400s. We learned that the last restrictions on Jews were only lifted in 1848.
Our guide pointed out a bar that he claimed was a synagogue in medieval times; it was, indeed, within the confines of the former ghetto. Nice’s Jewish cemetery, near the citadel, is the burial place of René Goscinny, the creator of the Asterix comics series, and Alfred Van Cleef, the famous jeweler.
In the first years of World War II, Nice was under Vichy (Nazi-allied unoccupied France), and perhaps 100,000 Jews fled there to escape deportation. Nice was occupied by Germany in 1942, and roundups began, but when the city came under the jurisdiction of the Italians, they refused to deport Jews. But when the Germans took over in 1943, the masses of Jewish refugees were an easy target.
There are memorials to the Jewish victims as well as to les Justes parmi les Nations, the Righteous among the Nations, who attempted to save them.
The Great Synagogue of Nice is a lovely 19th-century edifice designated as a national monument. The city has an active Jewish community and several kosher restaurants.
We chose to eat dinner in Cannes, known as the venue of the famous film festival and the place where the wealthy go to play. We saw good reviews for Dolce Farniente (“the sweetness of doing nothing,” in Italian), a kosher Italian dairy restaurant.
The prices were similar to what you would pay in Israel, and the food was very tasty - and included truffles! There was a kosher sushi restaurant next door. We were surprised that there were four kosher restaurants in this resort town that caters to international celebrities and affluent travelers.
We ended our evening with a stroll along Promenade de la Croisette, the boardwalk that stretches along the Mediterranean Sea, listening to music, animated conversations in several languages, and the clinking of glasses drifting out of seaside clubs as we shared the pavement with elegant partygoers from all over the world. The next morning, we flew home from the Nice airport.
Provence, once a crossroads of Jewish scholarship linking Sepharad and Ashkenaz, still sustains vibrant centers of Jewish life. The French Riviera continues to draw visitors from across the globe.
Our short trip could easily have stretched into several weeks, and we still wouldn’t have exhausted the region’s wealth of places that deserve to be explored.